Month: June 2024

This is the second part in replacing the clutch on my 2003 Mini Cooper S. At the end of the 1st part & YouTube video, I was stuck on the top bolt which is holding the ‘octopus’ connector on.

After borrowing some slightly smaller sockets, along with completely removing the starter motor, I was able to get enough slack on the cables to make enough room to get the socket on and bolt out. After removing the remaining 6 bell housing bolts and the gearbox mount the gearbox was wiggled out.

It hasn’t been plain sailing getting to this point. The bolts that hold the clutch slave cylinder in place have snapped and now need extracting, to get the slave cylinder off I have had to cut one of the lugs off so that needs replacement.

Once again, I am stuck. I now need the E8 reverse Torx adapters so that I can remove the pressure plate. The reverse Torx are also used on the steering rack, so it would be worth getting a set of these going forward. Thanks to a next day delivery on Prime, I received the E-Torx adapters. First time doing these bolts and I was a little nervous, but my trusty little ratchet got the bolts off.

With the rivets starting to wear, the flywheel has similar wear marks on it, it’s safe to say that the clutch did need replacing. Below is a video from when I got stuck to when I finally got the clutch off.

Status update

If you watch the videos that accompany this series, you’ll realise that this job has spidered from replacing the clutch to more of a full refresh. A list of jobs that need tackling are as follows:

• Rocker cover bolts – disintegrated
• Clutch slave cylinder bolts – stuck in gearbox casing after snapping
• Clean engine and gearbox
• Leaky mini kit
• Supercharger service
• Dipstick
• Clutch, flywheel and rear main seal
• Clutch slave cylinder
• CV joint boots need replacing
• Track rod end
• Exhaust
• Various bodywork fixings (wheel arch liner, bumper bolts/clips etc)
• Radio
• Drivers door card fitting and investigate window

What’s next?

Well, I have a couple of days where I won’t be able to work on the car due to other commitments. I have to order a few bits of equipment (engine crane, belt tension remover, something to extract bolts). I will also have to order parts. As a result, there will be a small delay on any updates. That being said, I will do what I can and in the mean time, please like/follow/subscribe on Social Media, the links at the top as this will help grow the project.

In line with the post Replacing the clutch – Part 1, the first video is now uploaded to YouTube. Please give it a watch, like and subscribe to keep following for more updates.

As mentioned in the post We have a Mini!, the clutch was the first job that needs to be done. This is the first time I’ve done a clutch in all my years working on cars. I have used a combination of the YouTube videos from Mod Mini and there is a Google Doc which outlines everything step by step.

There is quite a bit that needs to come off to get access to the gearbox. Given the car is over 20 years old, it’s no surprise it’s not been quite plain sailing. I am at the point where the subframe can come off. It all started when I couldn’t get the bumper off with the lower lip. This was due to the small metal bracket srusting solid. One of the track rod ends undid until the nut was at the end. Then it stopped, and had to be drilled out.

I have been creating a little video which I will put on YouTube soon outlining all of this. It won’t be a how to, Mod Mini has done a great job of this.

Shopping list

• Clutch & flywheel
• Rear main seal
• Bumper clips
• OSF track rod end
• Crank Position Sensor O-Ring
• Dipstick Tube O-Ring
• Oil filter housing seal
• Oil cooler seals
• Coolant
• Gearbox oil
• Engine oil
• Rocker cover bolts

One thing I have found is that Mod A Mini do a complete ‘leaky Mini seal set‘ which includes a fair amount of the above along with rocker cover and sump gaskets. Speaking of the rocker cover, the front 4 bolts have corroded so badly I do not know how I will get them out … the heads are completly gone. Looking online, it would appear that Lohen have a set of coloured bolts which will add some flair.

It’s tempting, whilst the subframe is off, to get hold of the subframe refurb kit which includes new ARB bushes, steering bushes and the rear bush. All easily available to do whilst the subframe is off. But this all adds money. Along with a Supercharger service, the only thing that in theory would be left is a timing chain. But if I do all that, it should be good mechanically.

Oh wow, who thought this bit would be difficult?!

Trying to find the first Mini to work on. I have been loking for a few months, come close a couple of times but managed to miss out at the last minute. Searching through eBay, Facebook and Autotrader. Maybe I am missing a trick.

After looking for so long, I have found myself with a few requirements for want of a better word:

• Petrol (diesels of this age are not ULEZ compliant)
• Mini Cooper or Cooper S (want the extra HP over a One)
• Rear spoiler (prefer the look of the roof spoiler)
• Ideally newer than 2004 (due to 5-speed gearbox change)
• Straight bodywork (don’t mind laquer peel, scratches etc as would look at a wrap)
• Some MOT (so I can drive it home)

All of this, for less than £1000. I would like the ones that have timing chain issues, clutch issues, head gaskets etc … my problem is collecting these cars. These are the ones I would like to focus attention on but it’s getting them back that I am struggling with.

What’s gone wrong?

I found a Cooper S which wasn’t holding a charge, ideal. Photo’d just around the corner (as in I could push it home!). After inquiring it had been moved ‘home’ and transport was an issue. I have found another Cooper S, which the seller proceeded to roll off a list of issues, but ended up beaten to it. A Cooper, which managed to get the price right after highlighting a Cat-D status … but then someone else will buy. Another Cooper on eBay, I was beaten to after a last minute bid. I have found a Cooper S which looks inviting but it’s a LONG journey away. One which the seller didn’t really message back, ended up selling twice in the same day and being re-listed for £200 increases each time!

I’ve spent so much time checking car histories out as well using the likes of Car Check Free. It’s been hard work. The first car will be for me, figure out my way around the rather tight engine bay. I will then look to do more and hopefully save some of the MOT & mechanical failures from being broken for nothing more than parts.

If you’re reading this and have anything suitable, please let me know.